Today's LaCrosse Tribune contains an historical tribute to the city, from Mark Twain himself:
"Here is a town of twelve or thirteen thousand population, with electric-lighted streets, and with blocks of buildings which are stately enough, and also architecturally fine enough, to command respect in any city."
However, one should always remember that a compliment from Twain is often a set-up for a punchline.
"[Lacrosse] is a choice town, and we made satisfactory use of the hour allowed us, in roaming it over, though the weather was rainier than necessary."
But he really liked Trempeleau mountain.
Twain visited the upper Mississippi in Spring of 1882, in order to add chapters of "Life on the Mississippi."